Buche de Noel

I love all the tradition that surrounds the holiday season. My family has so many wonderful traditions, many which I still do even when celebrating the holidays with just my husband. And, in getting married, him and I have also adapted some of his family's traditions. As a couple, Chris and I have created traditions together. One of our favorites is making a traditional Buche de Noel (Yule Log) cake every Christmas.

Originally, the Yule Log was an actual log. It started as a tree, which members of the family would go out and cut down, then bring the whole thing into the house. Once it was cut down, it was brought to the house with much fanfare, as this activity was thought to ensure good luck in the new year. The log was then placed on the hearth and set afire with a scrap of yule log from the previous year, which was meticulously preserved for this use. This tradition was done to ensure not only good luck from year to year, but from generation to generation as well. (If you're interested in learning more about this tradition, click here.)

No one is really sure where the idea of turning this tradition into a cake developed, but most food historians believe it happened in the 19th century. It was made to resemble an actual log, complete with a rolled cake to look like rings. Some were very fancy, and included meringue mushrooms, almond paste leaves, and other decorations to make it look like a true log. I, however, forgo the fancy stuff and do a simple dust of powdered sugar to look like snow. The cake is fabulous all on its own.

Now I realize that the ingredients are not all that local when compared to my other recipes, which usually emphasize locally grown produce or locally made artisan products. I do, however, believe that part of what makes a local food community is its traditions. In addition, I use local dairy and eggs, and also source my ingredients from my local co-op, not from a large chain store. You can find ways to integrate the idea of "local" even into recipes like this.

This delicious cake has several steps which make it seem complicated, but it is in fact a very easy cake to execute when the directions are followed properly. Do not be scared of making a rolled cake; again, it is really simple if you follow the directions. The cake itself is a delicious soft yellow sponge cake, filled with a rum-spiked chocolate spread and topped with a cocoa-whipped cream frosting. As you see in the picture, I like to slice off pieces from the end and place on the roll to make it look more like a log. The cake is best served cold or a little chilled, since leaving it at room temperature will cause the filling and frosting to fall.

I hope you enjoy this cake, and maybe it will become a part of your traditions!

Happy Holidays!

Buche de Noel

Makes 1 cake

Cake:

¾ c cake flour (you must use cake flour; all-purpose will not produce the same result)

½ tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

5 eggs, separated

1 c granulated sugar, divided

1 tsp vanilla

½ c powdered sugar

1 c semisweet chocolate chips

¾ c heavy cream

1 tbsp rum

Powdered sugar, for dusting

2 tsp unsweetened cocoa powder

Cocoa Frosting:

1 c heavy cream

2 tbsp unsweetened Dutch-processed cocoa powder, sifted*

½ c powdered sugar, sifted

1 tsp vanilla

To Make the Cake:

Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease 15-½x10-½-inch jelly-roll pan; line with waxed paper. Grease waxed paper; set pan aside. Place flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl. Stir to combine. Beat egg yolks and ⅔ cup granulated sugar in a separate small bowl with electric mixer at high speed about 5 minutes or until thick and lemon colored, scraping down the side of bowl once. Beat in vanilla; set aside.

Beat egg whites in clean large bowl using clean beaters with electric mixer at high speed until foamy. Gradually beat in remaining ⅓ cup granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until stiff peaks form.

Fold flour mixture into egg yolk mixture. Fold flour/egg yolk mixture into egg white mixture until evenly incorporated. Spread mixture into prepared pan. Bake 12-15 minutes or until cake springs back when lightly touched with finger. Meanwhile, lightly sift powdered sugar over a clean dish towel.

Loosen warm cake from edges of pan with spatula; invert onto prepared towel. Remove pan; carefully peel off waxed paper. Gently roll up cake in towel from short end, jelly-roll style. Let rolled cake cool completely on wire rack.

For chocolate filling, place chocolate chips and cream in heavy, 1-quart saucepan. Heat over low heat until chocolate is melted, stirring frequently. Pour into small bowl.; stir in rum. Cover and refrigerate about 1½ hours or until filling is of spreading consistency (should be pretty thick), stirring occasionally.

Prepare cocoa frosting (see below); refrigerate until ready to use.

Unroll cake; remove towel. Spread cake with chilled chocolate filling to within ½ inch of edge; re-roll cake. Spread cocoa frosting over cake roll. Dust with powdered sugar; sprinkle with cocoa.

To Make the Frosting:

Beat cream, cocoa, sugar, and vanilla with electric mixer at medium speed until soft peaks form (do not overbeat). Refrigerate until ready to use.

Adapted from Treasury of Christmas, page 336-338.

*Note: I usually use Hershey's Special Dark cocoa for this recipe, which provides a great, dark chocolate color and intense flavor to the frosting. The photo, however, was the buche I made at my mother-in-law's this year, and she only had regular cocoa. Either work fine, but the former will provide a stronger result.

Candied Orange Peel

Amazingly enough, the holiday season is already upon us. While it is undoubtably stressful, with seeking the perfect gift, decorating the house, coordinating travel plans and holiday parties, there is nothing like a little holiday baking to relieve all that stress. A warm kitchen with my favorite podcasts playing in the background, I feel at home stirring pots of caramel and hearing the whir of my stand mixer as I make cookies. I have this great apron that my aunt made me when I was little; it is bright red with an applique of stacked presents, outlined in puffy paint, with my name written at the bottom, also in puffy paint. I only wear this apron for holiday baking, and I love it.

This year, I am expanding my candy horizons. For the last few years, I've been making toffee, which has gone pretty well. I love giving candy as gifts because it's pretty, delicious, and a great break from cookies. This year, I decided on candied orange peel dipped in dark chocolate and salted caramels. These recipes would show off two great local ingredients: citrus (which is just coming into season here) and dairy products from Clover in Petaluma.

The caramels turned out beautifully, but what would you expect from butter, cream, and sugar being simmered and heated to the perfect temperature? Once cooled, it became soft, smooth, buttery, and stunningly golden. I sliced the caramel into cubes and wrapped in waxed paper. A tin of these, combined with the candied orange peel, will make a perfect gift for your friends, family, co-workers, anyone!

The recipe I am going to share with you is for candied orange peel. This process takes a while, so I would recommend setting aside about 2 hours. It is, however totally worth it. Be sure to get off as much of the pith (white part) of the orange as you can. It is what makes the peel quite bitter, even after being simmered in sugar water for 45 minutes. The recipe I was working off of did not make this a large part of the preparation, so I've emphasized it in the recipe below. Take your time, be diligent, follow the recipe, and you'll get a delicious result.

In addition to the candied orange peels, here are links to some of the other treats I made:

• Salted Caramels
• Limoncello Macaroons
• Whole Wheat Sables with Cacao Nibs

Enjoy, and happy holidays!

Candied Orange Peel

Makes about 2 cups of peel

6 thick-skinned (firm) Valencia or navel oranges, organic if possible

4 1/2 cups cane sugar, plus more for rolling

1 1/2 cups water

6 oz dark or semi-sweet chocolate (I used a Dagoba semi-sweet baking bar)

Cut off the top and bottom of each orange, then score the peel into quarters, making sure to cut only through the peel and not into the fruit. Peel the skin and pith off of the fruit (if you have an orange peeler, it works great for this step); save fruit for another use. Cut the peel into 1/4-inch wide strips. Using a paring knife, go through each strip and remove as much of the pith as possible.

Put the peels in a large saucepan and fill with cold water until it just covers the orange peel. Bring to a boil over high heat, then pour off the water. Repeat this blanching process (each time starting with cold water) two more times. Remove the orange peels from the pan.

Whisk the sugar with the water in the saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook until a candy thermometer* reaches the soft thread stage (230-234 degrees F). Add the peels and simmer gently, reducing heat to maintain a simmer, until the peels become translucent, about 45 minutes. Resist the urge to stir the peel during this process, since it will cause the sugar to crystallize. If necessary, swirl the pan a bit to move the peels around. Drain the peels, saving the syrup (it is delicious in iced tea, over ice cream, etc.). Roll the peels in sugar, then place on a sheet of parchment paper to dry for 4 to 5 hours.

When the peels are dry, they are ready for the chocolate. Melt the chocolate in the microwave or using the double-boil method. Dip half of each candied peel in chocolate, then place back on the parchment to dry. Once dried, store in an airtight container.

*A candy thermometer is a necessary tool for good candy, since temperature is such a key factor, so I would recommend purchasing one. I got mine for $10 at a kitchen store.

Pizza with Mushrooms & Arugula

Homemade pizza is by far one of my favorite things to make because it is such a fun and versatile food to put together. Making the crust satisfies my love of making anything that requires yeast and dough-rising. Second, you can put basically anything you would ever want on it, which means I get to venture to my local food co-op or farmers' market and pick the best and brightest of the local seasonal produce and cheeses.

Chris and I have been craving pizza for a few days, so I headed over to the Sacramento Natural Food Co-op to see what was available. I left with some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms and fresh baby arugula, among other items, all local of course. Putting the pizza together this evening was one of those great happy food moments. The dough, a different recipe than what I usually use, rose beautifully. As a shout-out to my dad, who always made homemade pizza dough when I was growing up, I sprinkled a little cornmeal on the pizza pan prior to laying down the dough. It is a great way to give the crust a unique and satisfying crunch. I spread out a generous helping of my husband's homemade pasta sauce, which we freeze copious amounts of every fall, then folded the dough over a little to make a little sauce pocket. I had pizza folded over like this during the summer, and loved how it turns pizza crust - which is usually dry, flavorless, and ignored - into a soft fold of dough that is a true part of the pizza. Topped with veggies and some herbed goat cheese and paired with a delicious glass of local red wine, this pizza was a perfect homage to all that is local and homemade.

Enjoy!

Pizza with Mushrooms & Arugula

Makes 1 pizza

Crust:

1 c water

1 packet (or 2 1/2 tsp) instant yeast

1/2 tsp salt

2 tsp olive oil

2 1/2 - 3 1/2 c flour

Toppings:

1 medium size leek, thinly sliced (white part only)

1/4 lb chanterelle mushrooms (you can use other kinds as well, whatever you like!)

1 small portobello mushroom cap

1 c pizza or pasta sauce

Handful baby arugula (or regular arugula, torn)

4 oz of herbed chevre, or whatever kind of cheese you prefer

To make the crust, combine the yeast and water and let stand 5 minutes, until foamy. Add the salt, olive oil, and 2 1/2 c flour; mix until combined. Add remaining flour, a little at a time, until the dough pulls away from the side of the bowl.* Transfer dough to an oiled mixing bowl. Roll dough around the bowl to evenly coat it in oil. Cover with a clean dish towel and let sit in a room-temperature, non-drafty place for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add leeks, a little salt and fresh ground pepper, and saute until leeks are soft and caramelizing, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms (and a little more oil, if skillet seems dry), saute 2-3 minutes; set aside.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. If using pizza stone, put in oven while it is preheating.

After dough has risen, punch down. Brush olive oil on a pizza pan and sprinkle with cornmeal. Place dough on pizza pan and stretch out to cover whole pan. Add sauce; spread evenly. Fold over about 1-inch of the dough all the way around the pizza. Top with leek-mushroom mixture, arugula, and goat cheese. Place pizza in oven on top of pizza stone and bake for 15-20 minutes.

*Note: I use my stand-mixer with a dough hook for this recipe, which makes it pretty easy to see when the dough is truly ready, as it incorporates ingredients more evenly than mixing by hand. If you do this by hand, mix it slowly and gently, being sure that all flour is incorporated before adding more. I usually use just a little bit less than what this recipe calls for.

Balsamic & Lime Chili

As the California winter begins, I am noticing that it does get rather cold in my new city. This morning, as I drove to the dog park with Bailey and Pinot, the temperature reader in my car said it was 37 degrees outside. Brrr! Upon returning home from the park, I warmed up my frozen toes and fingers with slippers and a warm cup of coffee, respectively, and then got to work on a pot of chili. Cold fall days scream for chili, and now that it was actually cold enough here, I was excited to make some.

In the past, I have always relied on my Ford's Chicken Chili recipe, but felt I wanted to mix things up a bit. This past summer I edited the 2nd edition of the Real Good Food Cookbook that Natural Alternative Co-op published, and this recipe caught my eye. I heard rave reviews about it, and when it is a recipe from the owner of Cafe Wren (they have some of the best soups I have ever had), I knew I couldn't go wrong.

There are several unique elements that make this chili delicious and unique. For one, it uses pumpkin puree as one of the thickeners, which I find gives it a earthy, slightly sweet flavor without being overpowering. Second, there is no chili powder in this recipe. While this may seem unacceptable to the chili connoisseur, trust me on this and restrain yourself from adding any. The clove and cinnamon add a warm spice note, while the basil and oregano give it a nice freshness. And of course, who can forget the title ingredients: balsamic vinegar and lime. The balsamic vinegar is a wonderfully unexpected addition and the lime gives the dish a great brightness.

I always serve my chili sprinkled with a locally-made sharp cheddar, chopped fresh cilantro, and fresh cornbread on the side.

Enjoy and stay warm!

Balsamic & Lime Chili

Olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 green bell pepper, chopped

5 cloves garlic, minced

28-oz can diced tomatoes (I like the fire roasted)

2 tbsp tomato paste

6 tbsp pureed pumpkin

15-oz can kidney beans

2 tsp ground cumin

1/4 tsp ground cloves

1 tsp cinnamon

2 tbsp paprika

2 tsp basil

2 tsp oregano

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp lime juice

2 tsp salt

Heat the olive oil in a large heavy saucepan. Add onion, peppers, and half the garlic; saute until tender. Add the tomatoes (with the juice), tomato paste, pumpkin, beans, and remaining seasonings (except the remaining garlic) to the vegetables. Simmer over lowest possible heat, stirring occasionally, for 20-30 minutes or longer. After first 15 minutes, add remaining garlic. Taste to adjust seasonings.

Note: This recipe, like all chili, is very versatile. I added 1 cup of chopped carrots to mine, but you could also add mushrooms, browned meat like beef or chicken, or even a small handful of chocolate chips!

Adapted from Balsamic Vinegar & Lime Chili by Stephanie Lundeen

Ricotta Ravioli with Rainbow Chard and Patty Pan "Croutons"

Every Wednesday I volunteer at Burning River Farm in Frederic, WI. I love being on the farm, learning how to pick vegetables, conversing with Adrienne the Market/Harvest manager and Mike the owner, and generally feeling more connected to my food. Chris said, when I told him I was going to start volunteering there on my days off, "we could have just started a garden, wouldn't that make you feel closer to your food?" The truth is, I love to garden, but being a part of a farming operation - one that provides a hundred-plus member CSA, vegetables to local co-ops, and a few farmer's markets - was different. While I do not live there and I do not get up at 5AM every day to work, I feel that spending this time at Burning River has made me extremely appreciative of what small farmers do, thus making me all the more thankful for the delicious food they provide.

Today, while helping pack CSA boxes brimming with sweet corn (which I helped pick), squash, onions, basil, carrots, beans, and tomatoes, I started thinking about what I wanted to cook for dinner tonight. I actually spend a lot of my time there thinking about cooking, and my meal plan for this evening changed at least three or four times. Mike and Adrienne pay me in produce (SO nice of them!) so I left with, among other things, a huge patty pan squash and a beautiful bunch of fresh rainbow chard. It is moments like these when I wish this blog application would allow me to post more than one picture so I could show you this beautiful bounty prior to cooking, but alas you just get a photo of the end result.

I really wanted to focus on making as much from scratch as I could for this meal, as a true homage to the hard work that goes into the produce I was using. I decided to make ravioli with homemade ricotta (I admit I cheated on the pasta dough and used egg roll wrappers, as I am moving and trying to clean out my fridge) and toss it with sauteed chard, then top it with crispy roasted patty pan, toasted hazelnuts, and this delicious Argentine Parmesan we picked up from The Wedge over the weekend. I also baked up some cast-iron pot bread, since I had been craving it for several days.

After prepping the bread dough, I started on the ricotta. You can use store-bought ricotta, but if you haven't made ricotta and want to try it out, I highly recommend it. It is a great starter cheese, since it is really easy to make and requires ingredients and tools you probably already have in your kitchen. While the ricotta was cooking, I packed a little, then started in on the raviolis when the ricotta was fully drained and properly salted. I decided to cut the egg roll wrappers into circles to make them smaller, and did so using an inverted drinking class and a table knife. I put a small dollop of ricotta in the middle and sealed the two pieces with a bit of water. I should note that you can also substitute any pasta into this recipe that you want, filled or not, but if you can get fresh pasta I would recommend it.

Chris and I enjoyed this with a lovely Amador County Zinfandel (a little homage to my soon-to-be new home) while watching the newest episode of Top Chef. How appropriate, right?

Enjoy!

Homemade Ricotta Raviolis with Swiss Chard and Patty Pan "Croutons"

Serves four (or two with delicious leftovers!)

Enough fresh pasta for four people (filled or not filled), cooked

1 large patty pan squash, cut into small cubes (you can also substitute summer squash, zucchini, or even butternut squash)

1 c hazelnuts

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp unsalted butter

3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

1 bunch rainbow chard, stems and leaves separated

Salt & fresh ground pepper to taste

Parmesan cheese, shaved

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Grease or place a non-stick mat on a cookie sheet. Toss the squash with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread onto prepared cookie sheet into a single layer. Roast for 20 minutes, turning the squash over halfway through to ensure even cooking and crispness.

Place hazelnuts on a dry cookie sheet. Place in the oven with the squash and toast for 5 minutes. Transfer the nuts to a clean dry dishcloth; fold the dishcloth over the nuts and roll your hands over the nuts for 20-30 seconds to remove the skin. Transfer the nuts back to the pan, clean off the dishtowel, then move the nuts back to the towel and fold the dishcloth over them. Using a rolling pin, roll over the nuts to break them into smaller pieces.

While the squash is baking, chop the stems of the chard the short way; set aside. Lay the leaves of the chard on top of one another, then roll tightly the long way. Slice the roll of chard leaves the short way; set aside.

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large skillet at medium-heat. Add the garlic and saute 2 minutes. Add the chard stems and saute for 3 minutes, or until they are starting to get soft. Add the chard leaves and saute until wilted. Transfer from a skillet to a large bowl and set aside.

Keeping the stove at medium heat, add about 2 tbsp of olive oil to the pan. Add the pasta, chard, and squash; toss until heated through. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as desired. Transfer to individual bowls (or serve family-style in a large bowl) and top with shaved Parmesan and toasted hazelnuts. Feel free to add a sprinkle of fresh basil as well!

Whole Wheat Flax Pizza Crust

Good Monday morning to you! I am excited to share this recipe because it is an easy and delicious way to make your own pizza crust. Did you know that a 100% whole wheat Boboli crust has 21 ingredients, including weird stuff like polydextrose and fumaric acid? This one has six, and I think you'll know exactly what each ingredient is. This is one of the huge benefits of making your own crust (as well as bread, salad dressing, and may other things); you know exactly what is in it and you know its nothing funky. That should make you, and your body, very happy.

Last night I wanted to make pizza, but we started late since we stayed down by the lake well into the evening. I knew the crust recipe I usually used was going to take 90 minutes, and we just didn't want to wait that long! I did some searching, found a few recipes, and adapted them to make the recipe below. I love it because its easy to make, easy to work with, and absolutely delicious. The flax gives it a wonderful nuttiness without being overpowering. Plus, the crust is versatile enough to be rolled out as a thin crust, or stuffed into a cast-iron skillet for a deep dish pizza.

I topped mine with local heirloom tomatoes, local arugula, and feta, but you can always top your pizza with whatever looks good at your market or whatever you're craving!

Enjoy!

Whole Wheat Flax Pizza Crust

1 tsp cane sugar or light brown sugar

3/4 tsp active dry yeast (or 1/2 of a 0.25-oz package of yeast)

1 c white whole wheat flour

1 tbsp flax meal or ground flaxseed (golden or brown)

2 tsp olive oil, plus more for oiling bowl and pan

3/4 tsp salt

Dissolve sugar in 1/2 c warm water in a large bowl (warm water is key for making the yeast activate). Stir in the yeast and let the mixture stand for 5 minutes, or until it is cloudy and bubbly. Stir in 3/4 c of the flour, flax meal, oil, and salt. Knead for two minutes while adding the remaining 1 /4 c of flour; make sure the flour is fully incorporated before proceeding. Lightly oil a separate bowl; turn the dough in this bowl until it is lightly coated with oil. Cover with a dish towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until the dough doubles in size, about 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F for a thin crust pizza or 475 degrees F for a deep dish skillet pizza. Lightly oil the pan you are using. Pat down and stretch out the dough to your desired size, then let the dough rest for about 5 minutes.

Add your toppings, then place pizza in the oven and bake 15-20 minutes. Monitor the crust and remove when it achieves desired crispness.

Adapted from Deep-Dish Skillet Pizza, p.35 from Vegetarian Times Healing Foods Cookbook.

Fettuccine with Fresh Peas & Asparagus

Now that summer is officially upon us, I felt the need to celebrate the beginning of fresh local veggies. Asparagus, peas, radishes, kale, chard, and salad greens are just a few popping up in my local co-op's produce section. I had some fresh asparagus from a member of our local food co-op and picked up some fresh sugar snap peas from Honey Creek Farm. I had seen a recipe which combined these two early summer ingredients with fettuccine, fresh local basil, and Parmesan and I decided to make my own version. I had some extra time this evening, so I chose to make my own fettuccine. I've provided a link to the recipe I used (subbing semolina flour for all-purpose flour), but you can also use purchased fresh or dried noodles. Making your own pasta can be very simple, and if you have a little extra time I recommend giving it a try. (Note: if you have a good rolling pin and a pizza wheel, and are willing to put in some elbow grease, you don't need a pasta maker for long noodles such as these).

To try something else new, use a chiffonade technique with the basil garnish. Chiffonade is an easy knife skill that can add a simple yet elegant touch to your plate. To do this with basil, stack several leaves on top of each other and roll them up the long way. Using a sharp knife, slice the roll of basil the short way. From this, you get fine slivers of basil perfect for sprinkling atop any pasta or salad.

The result of this beautiful summer vegetable combination is a deliciously light dish with a slight citrus note on the asparagus and nuttiness added by the shaved Parmesan. Use purchased pasta (fresh or dried) to make this an easy mid-week meal. Pair with a chardonnay that has a good balance of butter and citrus, which will play up the two undertones of this dish.

Enjoy!

Fettuccine with Fresh Asparagus and Peas

Serves 4

1 bunch fresh asparagus (about 10 spears), not too thick

2 tbsp butter or olive oil

Minced zest and juice of 1/2 a lemon

Salt & pepper

3/4 c freshly shelled Sugar Snap or English peas

1 lb fresh fettuccine (or 8 oz dried)

Several leaves of fresh basil

Shaved or grated Parmesan

With a sharp knife, cut the asparagus on the diagonal into pieces about 1-inch thick. In a small saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the asparagus and saute for 2 minutes.* Reduce the heat, add the lemon zest and juice. Combine, then add salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the peas and cook for 30 seconds. Add the pasta and cook until the pasta is tender and rises to the surface (the timing here will depend on if the pasta is fresh or dried, anywhere from 30 seconds to 6-7 minutes, so keep a close eye on it). Stir occasionally so that the noodles cook evenly. They will be done when they begin to occasionally float to the surface, but also use your fingers or a fork to test doneness. Drain the pasta and peas, then return to the pot.

Add asparagus mixture to the pasta and pea mixture and toss thoroughly to combine. Taste, then adjust salt and pepper if necessary.

Scoop the pasta onto four plates. Top with Parmesan and basil and serve immediately.

*To make this dish extra indulgent, reduce the butter to 1 tbsp add 2/3 cup heavy cream at this point in the recipe, before adding the zest, juice, pepper, and salt. Heat the cream through and then add the remaining ingredients, being sure to not let the mixture boil.